Céline Spring/Summer 2014

Season after season Pheobe Philo has presented boxy-shapes, structured garments with fittingly appropriate palettes. During her time at Céline she has heavily re-invigorated the brand, taking it from a not-so-exciting monogrammed french luxury house, to being one of most coveted brands worldwide with a strong focus on both accessories and apparel. This season, Philo presented a collection which truly once again changed the way people think about Céline.

In this collection, there is still very much the essence of the Céline woman from seasons past, however, this season she was much bolder and daring than ever before. The collection was more lighthearted and the garments carried much more fluidity rather than the stiff-structured garments of seasons past. Yet structural silhouettes still very much appeared in this collection, however they were juxtaposed by a carefully selected print on a garment, which made the fabric carry a more fluent presence and personality. It was a tale of the old and the new. Often looks from the show would have a stiffened top half through the use of a t-shirt or coat, which would then be juxtaposed with the eloquence of a chiffon insert or skirt. This not only allows for movement to be carried throughout the whole look, from head to toe, but also is true of the chameleonic nature of the collection.

The latest offering by Phoebe Philo in Céline's Spring 2014 collection, described a tale of morality. Taking lessons from the past and applying them to the future.

Images from style.com. View the full collection here.

The Dimensions of Fashion

Céline Fall/Winter 2013

These two coats presented at the Céline Fall/Winter 2013 collection were somewhat similar to pieces from Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2012 collection (pictured below), both designers -  Rei Kawakubo and Phoebe Philo had merged together the two-dimensional and three-dimensional worlds. The use of the flat shapes in both collections re-iterated the playfulness of both of the brands. Interestingly, these designs pushed against the traditional notions of tailoring in fashion which have been perfected over decades so that when a garment is worn, it is properly fitted. Instead these coats look as if they have been turned inside out, with the seams left on the outside. Perhaps this is a revolt or act of rebellion against the commercial sizing system as these could be trying to portray a "one-size-fits-all" mentality as designers upon designers manufacture garments focused on tailoring and the fit of such a garment.

This season Céline was more lenient in the structural sense. After having offered season after season of structured coats, tailored pants and dresses with a clean-lined architectural simplicity, this season was different. Phoebe Philo offered a much softer and warmer collection, yet still maintained architectural simplicity. Céline this season offered more than the traditional look of the Céline woman - sophisticated, minimal, effortless yet still overly chic, instead it showcased the many facades or personalities of such a woman. 

The coats shown above displayed comical hues while still remaining true to the Céline brand. By using a tablecloth-plaid type material which was weaved instead of polished wool as most designers do these days for their coats in fall, it allowed them to further push the boundaries of the typical polished wool button-down tailored winter coat. Though, it is the piping on the edges of the garments which truly set these apart from the rest. It not only adds more structure and frames the coat itself however, adds contrast to the background when worn. The piping also further enhances the two-dimensional look of the coat. Similarly, in the Fall/Winter ’12 collection of Comme des Garçons Kawakubo left a hem around the edges of the garments to create a more two-dimensional look.

Comme des Garçon Fall/Winter 2012

All images sourced from either Style.com or Vogue