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Céline Fall/Winter 2013 |
These two coats presented at the Céline Fall/Winter 2013 collection were
somewhat similar to pieces from Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2012 collection
(pictured below), both designers - Rei
Kawakubo and Phoebe Philo had merged together the two-dimensional and
three-dimensional worlds. The use of the flat shapes in both collections
re-iterated the playfulness of both of the brands. Interestingly, these designs pushed against the traditional notions of tailoring in fashion which have been perfected over decades so that when a garment is worn, it is properly fitted. Instead these coats look as if they have been turned inside out, with the seams left on the outside. Perhaps this is a revolt or act of rebellion against the commercial sizing system as these could be trying to portray a "one-size-fits-all" mentality as designers upon designers manufacture garments focused on tailoring and the fit of such a garment.
This
season Céline was more lenient in the structural sense. After having offered season
after season of structured coats, tailored pants and dresses with a clean-lined
architectural simplicity, this season was different. Phoebe Philo offered a
much softer and warmer collection, yet still maintained architectural
simplicity. Céline this season offered more than the traditional look of the Céline woman - sophisticated, minimal, effortless yet still overly chic, instead it showcased the many facades or personalities of such a woman.
The
coats shown above displayed comical hues while still remaining true to the Céline brand. By using a tablecloth-plaid type material which was weaved instead
of polished wool as most designers do these days for their coats in fall, it allowed them to further push the boundaries of the typical polished wool button-down tailored winter coat. Though, it is the piping on
the edges of the garments which truly set these apart from the rest. It not
only adds more structure and frames the coat itself however, adds contrast to
the background when worn. The piping also further enhances the two-dimensional
look of the coat. Similarly, in the Fall/Winter ’12 collection of Comme des Garçons Kawakubo left a hem around the edges of the garments to create a more
two-dimensional look.
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Comme des Garçon Fall/Winter 2012 |
All images sourced from either Style.com or Vogue