MSFW Industry day Part 1: The Debate - Earned Media vs. Paid Media

Melbourne Spring Fashion Week's industry day proved that fashion is not just about clothes. It proved that social media, marketing, innovative retail are the values which determine the sustainability of the fashion industry.

I was fortunate enough to be granted a full day pass in which I attended the Plenary and the Debate, and during lunch I was able to catch up with my favourite Melbourne fashion blogger and also one of my favourite people, Hung from Antwerp Sex.

In this first post, I will focus on the debate and my second post will be on the Plenary.

The topic of debate was effectively that earned media is more bang for your buck than paid media.
On the affirmative team, arguing for earned media was

1. Phoebe Montague, editor of Melbourne based fashion blog Lady Melbourne (Team Captain)
2. Janice Breen Burns, editor of Voxfrock.com.au
3. Anton Staindl, managing director of Haystac

The negative team, arguing for paid media included

1. Sarah Stringer from Carat (Team Captain)
2. Lisa Messenger, editor in chief of Renegade Collective
3. Rene L'Estrange-Nickson, director of Advertising at Broadsheet

So what is earned media and what is paid media?

The affirmative team defined earned media as publicity gained through editorial work and emphasised that earned media is much more subtle that paid media. In addition that earned media is about providing the best experience and generating confidence in consumers. The negative team, arguing for paid media, defined it as publicity gained through paid recommendation such as advertising and PR agencies which would inevitably increase profits and result in a return in investment.

Earned Media

The first speaker for the affirmative team, Phoebe Montague, presented the argument that publicity and media cannot be bought and it must be organic in order for media to manifest itself in a way which would be most beneficial to the client. She discussed the example of Tavi's infamous hat incident at Dior Couture in 2010 when a reporter from Grazia tweeted a photo of Tavi's hat blocking her view, with the caption "At Dior. Not pleased to be watching couture through 13 year old Tavi's hat." This tweet was re-tweeted over 10.3 million times and no doubt gained publicity for not only Tavi Gevison, but Dior, Stephen Jones (the designer of her hat) and Grazia (although it may not have been good publicity, it's still publicity). The cost to Dior, Tavi, Stephen Jones and Grazia was nothing. This example is truly one in which organic, earned media, triumphed, however there is no way of knowing if paid media was to advertise this incident what would've happened. Could it also have generated just as much publicity?

The second speaker for the affirmative team, Janice Breen Burns from Voxfrock.com.au, presented an entertaining speech in which she made reference to the "bend over the desk" job. She discussed the balancing act which was the relationship between the consumer and provider highlighting that there must be a mutual trust between the two. Burns discussed the cynicism surrounding media these days and most of all paid media, using the example of advertising vs journalism. Both of these are forms of paid media, which blurs the lines between the two. As journalism stands today, it insinuates that the journalist must be only reporting on the issue or topic at hand, that is, remaining impartial and showing absolutely no bias between the two, yet presenting both or all sides of the argument, however we know that this is not always true as humans are prejudiced and do bear preconceived notions, and so is journalism truly journalism or is it just simply another form of advertisement?

This led me to think of fashion journalism and in particular the profoundly childish and unprofessional blow up between Cathy Horyn and Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent (I will never get used to calling Yves Saint Laurent that). This issue not only highlighted the fact that most journalists now to be blunt, suck up to designers to attain highly coveted front row seats in the fashion world - fashion journalism is one which is truly dead. This issue was also demonstrated in Colin McDowell's article for the Business of Fashion, in which he examined the "sorry state of fashion journalism and why fashion need its fourth estate (fashion journalism) more than ever before." These are just two of the many examples this year in which the so-called fashion journalists have used their staked their reputations against the advertorial nature of paid fashion media.

Burns concluded her argument with a bold statement that "cynicism is a virus" in the case of paid media and this in turn devalues the integrity of both the consumer and source of media.

The third and final speaker for the affirmative team was Anton Staindl, the managing director of Haystac and he persuaded that paid media struggles to provide a subtle influential experience on the consumer. He demonstrated with the help of a photo of Miley Cyrus and Robin Thicke's infamous performance at the VMAs this year and Spanx - who apparently "let others do the talking for them" - letting their consumers and clients gain confidence in their brand and product through their reputation. He once again re-iterated the point that in order for media to work, there must be an organic, trusting relationship between consumer and supplier, that one must have confidence in both their product through organic, earned media rather than paid media.

Paid Media

Sarah Stringer from the Carat group, the first speaker for the negative team, was someone who I was seriously impressed with. It was obvious from the very start that Sarah had been in the business of media for a long time and knew how to use media to her advantage and integrate all channels of media. She acknowledged the fact that while PR agencies are effectively providing earned media, the way in which they deliver that media is through bought media. Stringer delivered the argument that through paid media, it can create a brand on a larger scale and reach a much bigger demographic through strategically studying consumer habits and enlisting a variety of communications.

The second speaker for the negative team, Lisa Messenger, delivered a hilariously unprepared speech yet with complete confidence and coherence. Through her magazine, Renegade Collective, Messenger talked about the economical side of paid media and the continuous cycle in which it contributes and sustains the various forms of media. She informed us that printing her magazine costs around $200,000 alone per issue and without paid media such as advertising, her magazine would simply be unsustainable and cease to exist. She applied this analogy to Television, Newspaper and Radio, that paid media is absolutely imperative to ensure the sustainability of these different channels of media communication.

It was interesting that she had bought up this issue because during the time between the Debate and the Plenary, I picked up a copy of Vogue US' infamous September Issue which I'm pretty sure is made up of 80% advertisements and 20% actual editorial work. Perhaps, Vogue in the same way is using the sensationalism surrounding the September Issue to fund it's other issues and side projects. I'll also be writing a blogpost about the September Issue soon, so watch out for that!

Finally, the negative team concluded with director of Advertising at Broadsheet, Rene L'Estrange-Nickson. Nickson re-iterated Messenger's argument about the economical sustainability of media through paid media and discussed the issue of paid media within the context of the fashion industry. He argued that in fashion, the goal, is to make a profit, which obviously is true as fashion is an industry. He steered the conversation again to PR however, presenting a unique perspective on the relationship between PR and paid media, stating that advertisement can generate good publicity and therefore PR. Furthermore, through paid media, it would in term generate earned media.

Nickson also introduced the argument that a proportion of Phoebe Montague's blog Lady Melbourne is actually generated through paid media, as she features a rate card on which clients are able to sponsor content to be featured on her blog. Although, the sponsored content is extremely transparent as Montague disclaims these to her readers and she stated that it is ultimately up to her audience whether or not they want to read the content which she is sponsored for.

I strongly believe that paid media and earned media go hand in hand, as paid media is guaranteed to be positive and promote as there is a compensation provided, earned media is more honest and in my opinion, generates much more credibility however may not reach a bigger demographic as Sarah Stringer stated. In our society, advertising holds an important place, telling us where to go, what to buy, what to eat and governing all our decisions in one way or another. However the issue stands that advertising is not always credible - in fact it's credibility is questionable as paid media will only address one side of the argument, the most positive side and most profitable side, whether this is lying or deceiving the consumer is up to the consumer to decide whether or not to buy into the product or service.



I would just like to state that although I was granted media accreditation to MSFW, I am in no way receiving any sort of compensation for my MSFW posts and that if I were to ever feature sponsored content on my blog, I would of course disclaim that to all of my readers.

Images are courtesy of Hobo photgraphy

MSFW: Designer Runway 2

Last night I had the pleasure of attending Melbourne Spring Fashion Week's second Designer Runway in which a number of Australia's most internationally recognised contemprary brands were exhibited including Alice McCall, Christina Exie, LIFEwithBIRD, Livia Arena, Manning Cartell, Neo Dia, Tettmann.Doust and finally YB J'Aime by Yeo Jin Bae.

This presentation by MSFW was not just an ordinary runway show however, more of a theatrical production, with eccentric futuristic dancers gracing the runway in between collections.

A fashion show really is so much more than just simply showcasing garments, while the garments are obviously a huge part of the show, there show is an experience. From the lighting, music to the makeup and hair, every intricate detail is considered to bring the garments to life.

The beauty by Kenneth Higgins from Mecca Cosmetica entitled Tangerine Dreams,  featured a graphic eye in a tangerine hue with luminous skin, subtle peachy-coral blush to create a natural flush on the cheeks, groomed brows and soft lips which complemented the minimalist aesthetic of the show. For product details visit Mecca Cosmetica's blog.

While the hair by Kevin Murphy was a modern take on the slicked back hair with added volume and tied at the bottom to create an effortless minimal effect.

Known for it's use of innovative fabrics, colours and prints Manning Cartell opened the show with a series of looks which balanced a modern contradiction of different elements. Although this contrast worked in their favour as each look was shown with  independence in design and context yet together, it was a collection that still made sense. Manning Cartell is a perfect representation of the contemporary fashion designers who are able to still appear commercial and approachable yet still maintain the reputation of a higher end brand.

Livia Arena presented a collection of garments that essentially manipulated the classic basic styles of any wardrobe. Opening the show with a simple white t-shirt and pants combo with the added twist of laser cut outs, this concludes the defining and differing factor between Livia Arena from many other brands. Livia Arena's ability to balance the perception of the past and the future is one which many designers struggle with, however Livia Arena is able to distribute this balance perfectly in every look. Utilising the fabrics as an embellishment rather than just the foundation of a garment it ensures a continuum between the wearer and the garment, establishing a rare relationship between the two. The garment becomes a part of the wearer and the wearer a part of the garment.

The brainchild of Melbourne RMIT graduate 'Life' - Nicholas Van Messner and 'Bird' - Bridget McCall (sister of Alice McCall), LIFEwithBIRD has constantly walked the fine line between conceptual and commercial, and this collection was no different. Their designs embody the resonance of modern women, with relaxed tailoring and a specific model of femininity.

Tettmann.Doust is a label that I had never heard of before however, it was one of the most interesting of the night. Their designs were avant-garde however not in the sense that they were unwearable. Tettmann.Doust drew on many aesthetics of the past and applied them in the opposite way that they had been used previously. It was clear that excogitation together with physical experimentation lie at the centre of their brand. This is a brand which is not bound by the traditional norms of commercialisation in the fashion industry, which in this day and age in Australian fashion design is extremely rare.

While Alice McCall stuck true to her brand and showcased an eclectic playful collection. Alice McCall re-exaggerates the influence of enhancing femininity in her designs. Most importantly the collection once again exonerated the seriousness of fashion as in the case with all collections by Alice McCall. McCall invites the wearer in every collection to take a youthful, fun and girly approach to fashion, and sometimes fashion really shouldn't be taken too seriously. I did also manage to spot a Balenciaga Spring/Summer 13 inspired bodice on a dress which was re-designed by McCall with the most unexpected yet courteous skirt.

Strength in design and concept is the central notion for the collection presented by Neo Dia. Opening with the most simplistic white dress and ending with 3 distinctly different green and black looks, Neo Dia has a diverse comprehension of a variety of aesthetics. Neo Dia is a label which provides elaboration and restriction in equal measure through it's exploration of sensuality and power. I applaud it's profound ability to influence attribution to the wearer through it's designs.

YB J'Aime by acclaimed Melbourne designer Yeo Jin Bae provided a testament to covetable style. With bold prints paired with daring colours, Yeo Jin Bae showcased a collection which is marked by blithe unconcern in the most fashionable sense.

Closing the show was Melbourne based and made label, Christina Exie. On the runway, the label showcases a strong presence only to be exemplified by the intensity of it's concepts and modern directional aesthetics. Chrsitina Exie presented one of the most powerful collections as it articulated and simulated a representation of femininity which interceded the two notions of ego and hysteria.

Although it's always easy to overlook the intricacies of a fashion show, I applaud MSFW on it's diverse casting of models of all races and hope that it continues on this path next year as well.

Unfortunately, this will be my last show for MSFW however, there are still many more shows to go so make sure you all head over to the MSFW website and check out it's program! There are many free events in the city square including runways in the Hub!

A big thank you to Georgie and also Elise at Haystac who I'm sure I annoyed with countless emails, thank you for both putting up with me and giving me this absolutely awe-inspiring opportunity. It was lovely to meet you last night!

Most importantly, thank you to all of you who made it possible for me to be able to attend MSFW! In all honestly, this could not have been possible without all of you and your support!

Hopefully, I'll be able to attend MSFW again next year!




All photos are credited to Thomas Walk and Wesley Nel at Hobo photography

H&M does Melbourne

Lindsey Wixson at H&M Fall/Winter 2013
Source: melbournesgpo.com

It's been announced that H&M's first store will be the GPO which is located in the heart of Melbourne CBD and with a floor space of more than  5000m2 and 3 levels, H&M will no doubt rival Zara as Bourke St becomes the battleground between these two fast-fashion chain retailers. While I am all too pleased about this announcement and I'm sure others will be jumping for joy, there is a downside. 

Unfortunately, some of the stores in GPO such as Emporium (as confirmed on MGPO's Facebook page) will be forced to relocate to other locations in the CBD. Here's hoping that Acne won't be one of them!

Obviously, this is an absolutely fantastic location for H&M, near tram lines, a short walking distance between both Melbourne Central station and Flinders St Station, and situated on the famous Bourke St there is no doubt that H&M will attract a lot of foot traffic however, what does this mean for GPO, as a boutique retail space and as a brand.

As GPO currently stands, it is home to some of the most dare I say, sassy and hip international and domestic brands such as Acne, Karen Walker, Life with Bird and Manning Cartell. Although a month or so ago, Willow relocated it's Bourke St storefront in GPO to Malvern Rd, Hawksburn. It is through these brands, GPO has branded itself to be one of Melbourne's premiere boutique shopping locations. The difference between stores such as H&M and Acne are obvious, firstly their respective target demographics are completely different and so are their prices. 

H&M's pricing is not expensive, I'm sure their prices will be comparative to Topshop or Sportsgirl's and Zara's aswell. While Acne is much more high-end compared to H&M's notion of affordable luxury - targeting all socio-economic demographics. A basic white t-shirt if I'm not mistaken at Acne costs around $150. These differences in pricing may effect other stores, as H&M draws a much wider and different demographic compared to the current brands in GPO. In the last few years, GPO always branded itself to be a leading boutique fashion institution mixing Australian and international designers. And so with the arrival of H&M, one can only wonder, does this also mean a change for the GPO brand as well? 

Nevertheless, it's about time H&M expanded it's multinational retail empire to Australia! 

MSFW: Student Runway 2

Last night I had the opportunity to attend my first (ever) runway show and it was nothing short of truly amazing.

Melbourne Spring Fashion Week showcased the work of some of the most talented individuals from Melbourne's leading fashion institutes including the Whitehouse Institute of Design, Box Hill Institute, Melbourne School of Fashion and the Kangan Institute.

A diverse range of concepts and aesthetics were portrayed as designers showed off not only their creativity but also their skills and techniques.

The hairstyle, by Kevin Murphy, was somewhat reminiscent of the hair at the late Alexander McQueen's Spring/Summer 2010 collection entitled, Platos Atlantis with two knotted buns on top of the head and a deep side part with a single strand of hair. The makeup by Mecca Cosmetica was a dark dramatic winged smokey eye with fresh skin and subtle contouring.

The opening look by Brendan Smith explored the baroque period and surrealism with it's exaggerated structured shape, while the folded pleats at the bottom added a femininity to the garment.

While avant-garde designer, Tennille Sanders, presented her clothes without any external embellishments - choosing to embellish her pieces using eclectic tailoring and clashing prints.

Eleni Nott had printed the word "SPLIT" onto the side of a dress and when I saw this, I could not help but think of Anna-Sophie Bergers' collection "Fashion is fast" which featured a number of slogans and measurements printed onto garments.

The printing of such materialistic and artificial words on garments was also most recently used by designer Raf Simons in his Spring/Summer 2014 collection and Anna-Sophie Bergers' collection "Fashion is fast".

Fashion is Fast by Anna-Sophie Berger
Source: TouristMagazine.co.uk

Bergers' collection featured a number of slogans, measurements and icons printed onto the garments, to re-iterate the most basic concepts and governing rules of production and commercialisation in the fashion industry. "Through serial presentation of garments in groups of four, I allow a sort of formal comparison between aspects that I isolated as essential for the conception of the trends and garments of a time. The mathematical fact of a skirt having a width of 90, as opposed to a skirt width of 360, executed as real garments present the dimension of change achieved through a seemingly banal equation." Berger told Bullet Magazine.

Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2014
Source: Style.com

Simons' S/S 14 collection also featured garments with words such as "Clusters-Artifically Flavoured - Super Nylon" branded across them. In an article by Dazed & Confused, Simons stated that it was a comment on the increasingly superficial and artificial nature of our society and heavily consumerist population. He declared the collection a "freedom of expression versus the mechanical repetition of products."

This piece by Eleni Nott, in the same way, declared the physicality and artificial nature of garments nowadays.


The attention to detail paid by all designers in their respective collections was truly astounding as many designers played with not only concepts such as minimalism and surrealism but also prints, iconography, texture as well as the tailoring of garments.

Congratulations to all the designers who presented their collections on the night - you have truly set a high standard for emerging fashion designers in Melbourne.

If you live in Melbourne, don't forget to check out the MSFW Program!

Thank you for having me MSFW!




All photos courtesy of Thomas Walk and Wesley Nel at Hobo photography with the exclusion of those which have sources at the bottom of the images.