MSFW: Designer Runway 2

Last night I had the pleasure of attending Melbourne Spring Fashion Week's second Designer Runway in which a number of Australia's most internationally recognised contemprary brands were exhibited including Alice McCall, Christina Exie, LIFEwithBIRD, Livia Arena, Manning Cartell, Neo Dia, Tettmann.Doust and finally YB J'Aime by Yeo Jin Bae.

This presentation by MSFW was not just an ordinary runway show however, more of a theatrical production, with eccentric futuristic dancers gracing the runway in between collections.

A fashion show really is so much more than just simply showcasing garments, while the garments are obviously a huge part of the show, there show is an experience. From the lighting, music to the makeup and hair, every intricate detail is considered to bring the garments to life.

The beauty by Kenneth Higgins from Mecca Cosmetica entitled Tangerine Dreams,  featured a graphic eye in a tangerine hue with luminous skin, subtle peachy-coral blush to create a natural flush on the cheeks, groomed brows and soft lips which complemented the minimalist aesthetic of the show. For product details visit Mecca Cosmetica's blog.

While the hair by Kevin Murphy was a modern take on the slicked back hair with added volume and tied at the bottom to create an effortless minimal effect.

Known for it's use of innovative fabrics, colours and prints Manning Cartell opened the show with a series of looks which balanced a modern contradiction of different elements. Although this contrast worked in their favour as each look was shown with  independence in design and context yet together, it was a collection that still made sense. Manning Cartell is a perfect representation of the contemporary fashion designers who are able to still appear commercial and approachable yet still maintain the reputation of a higher end brand.

Livia Arena presented a collection of garments that essentially manipulated the classic basic styles of any wardrobe. Opening the show with a simple white t-shirt and pants combo with the added twist of laser cut outs, this concludes the defining and differing factor between Livia Arena from many other brands. Livia Arena's ability to balance the perception of the past and the future is one which many designers struggle with, however Livia Arena is able to distribute this balance perfectly in every look. Utilising the fabrics as an embellishment rather than just the foundation of a garment it ensures a continuum between the wearer and the garment, establishing a rare relationship between the two. The garment becomes a part of the wearer and the wearer a part of the garment.

The brainchild of Melbourne RMIT graduate 'Life' - Nicholas Van Messner and 'Bird' - Bridget McCall (sister of Alice McCall), LIFEwithBIRD has constantly walked the fine line between conceptual and commercial, and this collection was no different. Their designs embody the resonance of modern women, with relaxed tailoring and a specific model of femininity.

Tettmann.Doust is a label that I had never heard of before however, it was one of the most interesting of the night. Their designs were avant-garde however not in the sense that they were unwearable. Tettmann.Doust drew on many aesthetics of the past and applied them in the opposite way that they had been used previously. It was clear that excogitation together with physical experimentation lie at the centre of their brand. This is a brand which is not bound by the traditional norms of commercialisation in the fashion industry, which in this day and age in Australian fashion design is extremely rare.

While Alice McCall stuck true to her brand and showcased an eclectic playful collection. Alice McCall re-exaggerates the influence of enhancing femininity in her designs. Most importantly the collection once again exonerated the seriousness of fashion as in the case with all collections by Alice McCall. McCall invites the wearer in every collection to take a youthful, fun and girly approach to fashion, and sometimes fashion really shouldn't be taken too seriously. I did also manage to spot a Balenciaga Spring/Summer 13 inspired bodice on a dress which was re-designed by McCall with the most unexpected yet courteous skirt.

Strength in design and concept is the central notion for the collection presented by Neo Dia. Opening with the most simplistic white dress and ending with 3 distinctly different green and black looks, Neo Dia has a diverse comprehension of a variety of aesthetics. Neo Dia is a label which provides elaboration and restriction in equal measure through it's exploration of sensuality and power. I applaud it's profound ability to influence attribution to the wearer through it's designs.

YB J'Aime by acclaimed Melbourne designer Yeo Jin Bae provided a testament to covetable style. With bold prints paired with daring colours, Yeo Jin Bae showcased a collection which is marked by blithe unconcern in the most fashionable sense.

Closing the show was Melbourne based and made label, Christina Exie. On the runway, the label showcases a strong presence only to be exemplified by the intensity of it's concepts and modern directional aesthetics. Chrsitina Exie presented one of the most powerful collections as it articulated and simulated a representation of femininity which interceded the two notions of ego and hysteria.

Although it's always easy to overlook the intricacies of a fashion show, I applaud MSFW on it's diverse casting of models of all races and hope that it continues on this path next year as well.

Unfortunately, this will be my last show for MSFW however, there are still many more shows to go so make sure you all head over to the MSFW website and check out it's program! There are many free events in the city square including runways in the Hub!

A big thank you to Georgie and also Elise at Haystac who I'm sure I annoyed with countless emails, thank you for both putting up with me and giving me this absolutely awe-inspiring opportunity. It was lovely to meet you last night!

Most importantly, thank you to all of you who made it possible for me to be able to attend MSFW! In all honestly, this could not have been possible without all of you and your support!

Hopefully, I'll be able to attend MSFW again next year!




All photos are credited to Thomas Walk and Wesley Nel at Hobo photography